Monday, 1 September 2014
Beer Cocktails (yes, really)
My first experience of drinking beer cocktails was in BrewDog Glasgow in 2012. As soon as we arrived I spotted a board with a list of three beer cocktails and got a bit excited. I loved beer. I loved cocktails. Surely a beer cocktail could only be better than the sum of its parts, right? My drinking companions quickly talked me down and insisted that we have a couple of rounds of beer first to work our way up to the cocktails. Eventually I got my way though and we tried one of each cocktail. Now, I don’t recall exactly what they were called or precisely what was in them (I know mine was made with Punk) but one thing they all had in common was that they were decidedly less pleasant than any unadulterated BrewDog beers. My friend Vanessa described hers as tasting like ‘old ladies shoes that have been kept in a cupboard for a long time’. We didn’t want to finish them and went back to beer instead.
Monday, 21 July 2014
The Homebrew Sessions Vol.3: Brewing with Adjuncts
Branching out from 'standard' brewing practices, how do brewers go about creating some of their more experimental beers*? According to homebrew legend John Palmer an adjunct is 'any non-enzymatic fermentable. Adjuncts include unmalted cereals such as flaked barley or corn grits, syrups, and refined sugars.'
Tuesday, 15 July 2014
Levelling up the Crema Brewery
For those that follow us on Twitter, you've probably noticed that we've come a long way from home-brewing with a big stock pot and some plastic buckets. As we've accumulated more kit and refined our brewing process, we felt it was time to share our experiences with the home-brewing world.
Friday, 11 July 2014
'It takes a certain ballsiness to go to a bar alone if you’re a woman'
At least it does according to this blog post which was published a year ago. Yes, that's right - in 2013. Until I began writing this post I had no idea that a person (male or female) going for a drink by themselves was such a big deal. But there are hundreds of websites, blogs and forum posts, where people ask for and give advice on the topic. But what is even more surprising to me is that the old-fashioned concept that 'women shouldn't go to pubs or bars by themselves and if they do it means they are only there for one reason*' is still being voiced today by women.
Monday, 30 June 2014
Collaboration Home-brewing. Yes, it is a thing. Part 2
This is the second post about some of the collaboration home-brewing we've been doing with fellow home-brewers. We started this post back in March after publishing Part 1, but due to additional time commitments with work (Chris is now brewing one day a week with Weird Beard Brew Co) and volunteering (Emma has been tutoring an A Biology student), we've struggled to find time for blogging.
Part 2
Our second collaboration arose from a piece of brewing equipment we bought. Tired of constantly swirling a 2L conical flask every time we looked at it, we decided to invest in a stir plate. If you're serious about ensuring you're pitching the right amount of yeast, one of these little toys is a good buy. However, we love having scientific kit in the brewery (kitchen) so that made it an easy decision. When our friend, Andrew Drinkwater, heard we'd bought a stir plate, he pitched a hard-to-resist idea to us. Why not brew an all Brettanomyces IPA and use the stir plate to grow enough yeast cells for a 100% Brett beer?
Where do you start with an all Brett IPA? What flavour profile do you aim for? Which strain of Brett do you use? We threw around some ideas between ourselves initially and, then when we bumped into him at IndyManBeerCon, we asked Thornbridge's ever-helpful Dominic Driscoll for advice. We particularly wanted help with which strain to use and how to make a decent starter for it. Dom consulted some of his fellow professional brewers (Ryan Witter of Siren Brewing deserves a credit here) and came back with an answer for us - use Brettanomyces clausenii (we used White Labs WLP645) in normal sized starter running on a stir plate for about 36 hours.
So with that vital information on how to build up the yeast count answered, we ploughed into phase 2 of recipe formulation. We knew we wanted a very hoppy beer to jostle a little with the inevitable Brett aroma. Doing a bit of research, especially focusing on a presentation by Crooked Stave's Chad Yakobson's on the effect of lactic acid in brewing with Brettanomyces (Chad's presentation to the American Homebrewers Association can be found here) and the formation of ethyl lactate, which produces a pineapple aroma in beer. Coupled with this, we decided to go for a hop bill that would complement the pineapple aroma so we choose Australian (Vic Secret) and New Zealand (Pacific Jade, Southern Cross, Wakatu, Motueka and Kohatu) hops. We stuck with a fairly basic grain bill of Maris Otter, malted wheat, Pilsner malt, acidulated malt (for the lactic acid) and Carapils. We aimed to mash for a medium body to give it enough punch but without it being too sweet.
The day before brew day, we took stock: yeast starter heading towards high krausen, hops all accounted for, malt... Whoops, we had forgotten to order the acidulated malt. After a short collaborative panic, our co-brewer Andrew offered to drive down to the Home Brew Shop in Aldershot to collect some on his way to stay at his parents' house in Gloucestershire for the night. Phew, disaster averted.
We got everything set up on Sunday morning in readiness for Andrew's arrival. Bacon defrosted for sustenance, cheese plus a good selection of beers in the fridge for later. Then we got an unexpected message from Andrew. He had just reached Clapham Junction only to find that the acidulated malt wasn't in his bag. Where could it be? PANIC! CONFUSION! DISASTER! It transpired that his mum had tidied the acidulated malt away with his other grains which he stores at his parents' house.
While Andrew made the rest of his journey on to our place, we desperately scoured the internet. Could we get any acidulated malt on a Sunday? No, was the apparent answer. Could we acidify some pale malt? Maybe. Could we buy some straight lactic acid? Not easily and it might involve a journey into an obscure part of London. What else contains lactic acid which is perfectly safe for consumption? Emma's previous life working as a lab tech in yogurt manufacturing made her pause for a moment... yogurt? But you can't put yogurt into a beer....and the bulb over her head flickered and died. Just like our brewday by the looks of things.
Andrew arrived and we got stuck into our staple brewers' breakfast of bacon + cheese + some form of bread. This fired the synapses in Emma's brain and the light bulb flickered back into life. The answer to our lactic acid problem was Yakult. For those who've never heard of it before, it's a 'health food drink' that's made with sugar, Lactobacillus spp. and a few other odds and ends (mostly proteins) but the main point is the Lactobacillus eats the sugar and turns it into lactic acid. We looked up the data sheet for Yakult on the interwebs and estimated the volume we might need from the approximate amount of lactic acid they stated was in each bottle. A quick trip to Sainsburys and we were sorted.
With the brewing liquor now on to heat, grains measured out we were finally ready to start. The Yakult went into the mash with the grains because although there are many different ways to make sour beers, in this case (to get the flavour profile we wanted) the acidic pH had to be established during the mash. After we added what we thought we needed, we tested the pH and in the end we had to add more to get the pH down to our target of 4.7.
The rest of the brewday proceeded as planned and we got the wort into the FV in good time with the yeast pitched. We had a little bit of a heart in mouth moment the next day when we realised that after 24 hours there wasn't any activity in the airlock but with a 1degC raise in the temperature using the Chamber of Fermentation, it was soon bubbling away happily. (Note: Chad Yakobson's presentation does mention that Brett strains typically have a 24 lag period, so I guess we should have read it more thoroughly!)
We dry-hopped with Moteuka and Vic Secret and dry-zested it with lemon zest soaked in a small amount vodka to sanitise it, which we pitched also as it had clearly dissolved some of the oils from the lemon zest. We cold crashed the beer to drop the dry-hops out and then kegged the beer before force-carbonating it to 2.7 volumes of CO2 to help lift the aroma and make it zesty and refreshing.
The beer came out really well in the end and we named it 'Sabotage B.A.Y' after the unintentional sabotage by Andrew's mum, that nearly scuppered our whole brew day, and B.A.Y which stands for for Brettanomyces And Yakult. Then we brewed it again, this time with actual acidulated malt and more dry-hops, which came out much better, but this beer only came about because Andrew had convinced us to give the idea a go in the first place.
After the success of the Sabotage B.A.Y, we decided with Andrew that we should try to make another hoppy Brett IPA but this time with US hops instead of NZ/Australian hops. We also decided to change the yeast strain and after a bit of research, we opted for Brettanomyces Bruxellensis Trois (White Labs WLP644) which is a more traditional Belgian strain that produces a slight tartness along with flavours of mango and pineapple. We used the same grain bill as Sabotage B.A.Y but this time hopped with Magnum (bittering), Centennial, Cascade and Amarillo. We dry-hopped with Amarillo and Cascade pellets along with a dry zesting of orange zest soaked in vodka.
This beer came out really well, with a more subtle Brett character than the Sabotage B.A.Y and strong orange and mango flavours. After struggling to name this beer, we settled on 'Helius' after the Greek god of the Sun, which we felt was appropriate with the refreshing orange aroma and flavour blasting out of it. Definitely a beer to brew again.
Probably one thing left to mention that some people are likely to ask questions about - contamination. We used Brett yeast strains in two beers - how did we clean our kit? Well, firstly, anything that the Brett encountered in large quantities (FV, carboy, keg) was labelled with a big piece of Duck Tape with 'Brett' written on it. This way we knew what had to be cleaned using more rigorous methods. Secondly, Brett can be killed like any other organism - heat (steam, boiling water) or sterilisation (various sanitisers) both work pretty well. We opted for the latter in this case with Emma obtaining some Virkon (an oxidiser) that kills almost all microorganisms it comes into contact with. We filled the vessels up with the correct dilution and let the Virkon do its work for at least 30 minutes before rinsing off. We also had a mini-cornie (9L) with Virkon in it for use in cleaning our counter-pressure bottler or dispense line if we've let any of our Brett beers sit in them for a period. As of yet (touch wood), we've not had any problems with Brett contamination in any of our other beers.
Part 2
Our second collaboration arose from a piece of brewing equipment we bought. Tired of constantly swirling a 2L conical flask every time we looked at it, we decided to invest in a stir plate. If you're serious about ensuring you're pitching the right amount of yeast, one of these little toys is a good buy. However, we love having scientific kit in the brewery (kitchen) so that made it an easy decision. When our friend, Andrew Drinkwater, heard we'd bought a stir plate, he pitched a hard-to-resist idea to us. Why not brew an all Brettanomyces IPA and use the stir plate to grow enough yeast cells for a 100% Brett beer?
Where do you start with an all Brett IPA? What flavour profile do you aim for? Which strain of Brett do you use? We threw around some ideas between ourselves initially and, then when we bumped into him at IndyManBeerCon, we asked Thornbridge's ever-helpful Dominic Driscoll for advice. We particularly wanted help with which strain to use and how to make a decent starter for it. Dom consulted some of his fellow professional brewers (Ryan Witter of Siren Brewing deserves a credit here) and came back with an answer for us - use Brettanomyces clausenii (we used White Labs WLP645) in normal sized starter running on a stir plate for about 36 hours.
| Our Brett starter on the stir plate. |
So with that vital information on how to build up the yeast count answered, we ploughed into phase 2 of recipe formulation. We knew we wanted a very hoppy beer to jostle a little with the inevitable Brett aroma. Doing a bit of research, especially focusing on a presentation by Crooked Stave's Chad Yakobson's on the effect of lactic acid in brewing with Brettanomyces (Chad's presentation to the American Homebrewers Association can be found here) and the formation of ethyl lactate, which produces a pineapple aroma in beer. Coupled with this, we decided to go for a hop bill that would complement the pineapple aroma so we choose Australian (Vic Secret) and New Zealand (Pacific Jade, Southern Cross, Wakatu, Motueka and Kohatu) hops. We stuck with a fairly basic grain bill of Maris Otter, malted wheat, Pilsner malt, acidulated malt (for the lactic acid) and Carapils. We aimed to mash for a medium body to give it enough punch but without it being too sweet.
The day before brew day, we took stock: yeast starter heading towards high krausen, hops all accounted for, malt... Whoops, we had forgotten to order the acidulated malt. After a short collaborative panic, our co-brewer Andrew offered to drive down to the Home Brew Shop in Aldershot to collect some on his way to stay at his parents' house in Gloucestershire for the night. Phew, disaster averted.
We got everything set up on Sunday morning in readiness for Andrew's arrival. Bacon defrosted for sustenance, cheese plus a good selection of beers in the fridge for later. Then we got an unexpected message from Andrew. He had just reached Clapham Junction only to find that the acidulated malt wasn't in his bag. Where could it be? PANIC! CONFUSION! DISASTER! It transpired that his mum had tidied the acidulated malt away with his other grains which he stores at his parents' house.
While Andrew made the rest of his journey on to our place, we desperately scoured the internet. Could we get any acidulated malt on a Sunday? No, was the apparent answer. Could we acidify some pale malt? Maybe. Could we buy some straight lactic acid? Not easily and it might involve a journey into an obscure part of London. What else contains lactic acid which is perfectly safe for consumption? Emma's previous life working as a lab tech in yogurt manufacturing made her pause for a moment... yogurt? But you can't put yogurt into a beer....and the bulb over her head flickered and died. Just like our brewday by the looks of things.
Andrew arrived and we got stuck into our staple brewers' breakfast of bacon + cheese + some form of bread. This fired the synapses in Emma's brain and the light bulb flickered back into life. The answer to our lactic acid problem was Yakult. For those who've never heard of it before, it's a 'health food drink' that's made with sugar, Lactobacillus spp. and a few other odds and ends (mostly proteins) but the main point is the Lactobacillus eats the sugar and turns it into lactic acid. We looked up the data sheet for Yakult on the interwebs and estimated the volume we might need from the approximate amount of lactic acid they stated was in each bottle. A quick trip to Sainsburys and we were sorted.
With the brewing liquor now on to heat, grains measured out we were finally ready to start. The Yakult went into the mash with the grains because although there are many different ways to make sour beers, in this case (to get the flavour profile we wanted) the acidic pH had to be established during the mash. After we added what we thought we needed, we tested the pH and in the end we had to add more to get the pH down to our target of 4.7.
The rest of the brewday proceeded as planned and we got the wort into the FV in good time with the yeast pitched. We had a little bit of a heart in mouth moment the next day when we realised that after 24 hours there wasn't any activity in the airlock but with a 1degC raise in the temperature using the Chamber of Fermentation, it was soon bubbling away happily. (Note: Chad Yakobson's presentation does mention that Brett strains typically have a 24 lag period, so I guess we should have read it more thoroughly!)
We dry-hopped with Moteuka and Vic Secret and dry-zested it with lemon zest soaked in a small amount vodka to sanitise it, which we pitched also as it had clearly dissolved some of the oils from the lemon zest. We cold crashed the beer to drop the dry-hops out and then kegged the beer before force-carbonating it to 2.7 volumes of CO2 to help lift the aroma and make it zesty and refreshing.
The beer came out really well in the end and we named it 'Sabotage B.A.Y' after the unintentional sabotage by Andrew's mum, that nearly scuppered our whole brew day, and B.A.Y which stands for for Brettanomyces And Yakult. Then we brewed it again, this time with actual acidulated malt and more dry-hops, which came out much better, but this beer only came about because Andrew had convinced us to give the idea a go in the first place.
After the success of the Sabotage B.A.Y, we decided with Andrew that we should try to make another hoppy Brett IPA but this time with US hops instead of NZ/Australian hops. We also decided to change the yeast strain and after a bit of research, we opted for Brettanomyces Bruxellensis Trois (White Labs WLP644) which is a more traditional Belgian strain that produces a slight tartness along with flavours of mango and pineapple. We used the same grain bill as Sabotage B.A.Y but this time hopped with Magnum (bittering), Centennial, Cascade and Amarillo. We dry-hopped with Amarillo and Cascade pellets along with a dry zesting of orange zest soaked in vodka.
This beer came out really well, with a more subtle Brett character than the Sabotage B.A.Y and strong orange and mango flavours. After struggling to name this beer, we settled on 'Helius' after the Greek god of the Sun, which we felt was appropriate with the refreshing orange aroma and flavour blasting out of it. Definitely a beer to brew again.
Probably one thing left to mention that some people are likely to ask questions about - contamination. We used Brett yeast strains in two beers - how did we clean our kit? Well, firstly, anything that the Brett encountered in large quantities (FV, carboy, keg) was labelled with a big piece of Duck Tape with 'Brett' written on it. This way we knew what had to be cleaned using more rigorous methods. Secondly, Brett can be killed like any other organism - heat (steam, boiling water) or sterilisation (various sanitisers) both work pretty well. We opted for the latter in this case with Emma obtaining some Virkon (an oxidiser) that kills almost all microorganisms it comes into contact with. We filled the vessels up with the correct dilution and let the Virkon do its work for at least 30 minutes before rinsing off. We also had a mini-cornie (9L) with Virkon in it for use in cleaning our counter-pressure bottler or dispense line if we've let any of our Brett beers sit in them for a period. As of yet (touch wood), we've not had any problems with Brett contamination in any of our other beers.
Monday, 7 April 2014
Close Encounters of the Third Kind
The Evil Twin tap takeover held at Craft Beer Co in Clerkenwell back in January was probably the first time I've ever bought a round of three 1/2 pints and only got 50 pence change back from a twenty pound note. That was the moment that crystallized for me how ridiculous it is to sell (one-off or unusual) high ABV beers without offering them in 1/3 of a pint measures.
Monday, 31 March 2014
The Homebrew Sessions Vol. 2: Process
This time I wanted to know how these brewers go about doing what they do...
“How much have you changed your process since you first started brewing?”
“Have you ever/would you consider brewing something solely to learn a particular process/style of brewing?”
Andrew Drinkwater
"What do you put your
brewing success down to? Is it being able to put together a good recipe? Is it
your brewing process (your equipment, your method of working, etc)? Is it your
overall understanding of what you are actually doing, which allows you to
problem solve by first principles as you go along (rather than just following
instructions by rote)? Or something else? How much have you changed your process since you first started brewing? Have you ever/would you consider brewing something solely to learn a particular
process/style of brewing?”
I think
any success is always relative... but it tends to come down to process and
refinement and repetition of that process. A lot of process is driven by your
equipment - working out what works with your kit, which elements require
particular thought and where you have weaknesses that you need to hide. I have
a three-vessel setup with a 25-litre Electrim boiler as an HLT, a converted 45l
Igloo cooler as a mashtun and a Brupaks boiler as my kettle, with a copper
immersion chiller to handle my chilling. That setup makes complicated mash
schedules a bit more difficult, and as I don't have a hopback or any way of
achieving a whirlpool, I've had to experiment with adding late hops at flameout
or during the chilling process to see what gets the best results.
The
brewday usually starts as early as I can wake up these days, after some
ill-advised late night brewdays that ended up finishing at 5am. The night
before, I'll weigh out the grist and keep it covered in a fermenting bucket.
I've started using Beersmith to calculate my strike and sparge water, so I'll
fill the HLT with whatever it tells me to and add CRS as required. In the past,
I didn't bother calculating the water, which has led to a lot of
over-collection of wort or efficiency issues. I've learned from those mistakes.
HLT goes
on while I make a bacon sandwich and a pot of coffee and review the hop
additions, then add the water and grain to the tun together, adjust the temp
with tap or boiling water as required, and set a timer (I usually do 90 minute
single infusion mashes). About 15 mins from the end, I'll refill the HLT and
set it to heat up, so that by the time I need to start sparging, I'm at about
75-80c as required. I vorlauf until I get bored of it, if I'm honest - I rarely
see clear wort even if I do this for half an hour, so I usually recirculate
about 20-25 litres and then start taking runnings slowly.
I don't
have any fancy equipment for distributing sparge water - I use a sheet of tin
foil with holes punched in it with my thermometer. Really rudimentary stuff.
I've always sparged very, very slowly, a relic of my first all-grain brew which
had loads of oats in it - on the plus side, I've had decent efficiency since.
Any time I've sparged quickly, I've ended up with disappointing efficiency, and
brewdays are far too much effort to ruin them for the sake of cutting 20
minutes off a sparge.
I collect
in a marked fermenting bin as my boiler doesn't have a sight glass, then I jug it
over, reserving a sample jar to test the pre-boil gravity once it's cooled to a
reasonable level. I don't have a pH meter or a refractometer, but those would
be my next investments - at the moment, I tend to repeat last-known-good
processes and malt bill, or try to correct the process based on identifiable
faults in the end product. The next investment will be in a pH meter,
definitely.
At the
end of the boil, I try to chill to 24c as quickly as possible using the coil,
then drain through a wire mesh hop filter inside the kettle and into an FV. The
drop into the FV and associated aeration usually takes the last couple of
degrees celsius out of the wort, ready for pitching. My fermentation room keeps
a constant 18c, even in summer, so I use a heatpad for driving up the
temperature for Belgian yeasts and a fridge for lagering. I rarely go straight
from primary to packaging - only with something like a Belgian witbier, where a
bit of yeastiness is acceptable and I'm not bothered about clarity too much.
A bit on
dry-hopping... almost everything I brew is dry-hopped, usually just dropping
pellets into the secondary. Occasionally they go into a muslin bag if I'm being
very cautious about clarity, but otherwise I just crash-cool to get rid of all
the pellets before bottling. That said, I remember one beer I bottled with lots
of matter still in suspension, and they were all horrific - gushing, infected,
nasty bitterness... grim.
One last
thing: record everything. If your brew goes well, you'll want to do everything
again in exactly the same way.
Andy Parker
"What
do you put your brewing success down to? Is it being able to put together a
good recipe? Is it your brewing process (your equipment, your method of
working, etc)? Is it your overall understanding of what you are actually doing,
which allows you to problem solve by first principles as you go along (rather
than just following instructions by rote)? Or something else?"
First and
foremost I put in down to a willingness to listen and learn. I started out with
no clue as to what I was doing and I’d assert that this is the same place all
brewers start so you’re not at a disadvantage. Some may have a natural flair
for recipes but without a grasp of the basic science behind it and the process
required they won’t be able to put those ideas into motion. I started out by
reading John Palmer’s How To Brew and found it completely overwhelming
at first, especially when it got into detail. So then I started reading blogs
such as David Bishop: broadfordbrewer to see how others were applying the theory in a
practical sense. This was an iterative thing before eventually plucking up the
courage to take the plunge. For me, the most important learning has been ‘on
the job’. Books get you to a point and often help provide answers when things
don’t turn out right but by far the best way to learn is to do. I’ve had some
disastrous brew days but you get through them and bring a bit more experience
to the fold each time you fire up your trusty HLT.
“How much have you changed your process since you first started brewing?”
The basic
process has remained the same but I’ve refined things in terms of approach and
equipment as I’ve progressed. My first brew was boiled up in a stainless pot on
our electric hob and cooled in a garden bucket. The brew day was very long
because everything took much longer than it needed to. I’ve invested in kit to
help improve the process and reduce the length of brew days especially. The
biggest win was an electric HLT/kettle that shaved off over 2 hours! Also worth
noting here is my approach to temperature control. Until very recently I didn’t
do anything here beyond wrapping blankets around the FV when it was cold and
finding a cool part of the house when it was warm. The key thing was to pick
yeasts that were happy with the temperatures within which they had to work.
Yeasts such as Wyeast 1056 (Chico - see also Fermentis US 05) and 3711 (French
Saison) work very well at room temperature. My first brews with specific yeast
strains that like to work at warmer temperatures dictated the need to buy a
heater plate more recently. My advice to home brewers starting out is to get
your basic process and especially sanitation sorted out before starting to
worry about complicated temperature controlled set ups. Don’t run before you
can walk. My second bit of advice when it comes to fermentation would be to
have patience!
“Have you ever/would you consider brewing something solely to learn a particular process/style of brewing?”
I’ve done this once before with
an ESB. It’s not a style drink too much of but one I wanted to know how to
brew. I didn’t even bottle any - just tasted it, let it sit there for a while,
tasted it again then poured it away because I needed the fermenter back. That’s
not something I can see myself doing too often! I’d like to try a decoction
mash at some point and would also like to expand my knowledge of brewing with
wild yeast strains, even though the beers the styles of beers implied there are
not my favourites.
Alan Wall
"What do you put your
brewing success down to? Is it being able to put together a good recipe? Is it
your brewing process (your equipment, your method of working, etc)? Is it your
overall understanding of what you are actually doing, which allows you to
problem solve by first principles as you go along (rather than just following
instructions by rote)? Or something else? How much have you changed your process since you first started brewing? Have you ever/would you consider brewing something solely to learn a particular
process/style of brewing?”
Sometimes
my brewing is (in my opinion) pretty good, sometimes it’s not. It’s all because
I wish to experiment, and learn so quickly.
I started out having little clue as to what I was doing, using a brewing
application, and mashing in a bag, in a coolbox and boiling in 3 pans on the
stove. Very quickly I grew unhappy as I didn’t fully understand the things I
was doing. So I started to build my spreadsheet up and learn from first
principles how everything works. Most of my
understanding, and I suppose fun, comes from the equations and numbers. That’s
something that I spend more time working through.
Since
then I’ve moved to bigger cool boxes, and from there to a converted keg mash
tun/ kettle (this was meant to be a separate MT and kettle, but for now is a
single keg used to do both) that I made myself. I will be making a new keg MT
and kettle when I can either find another local brewer with damaged kegs, or I
can afford to buy some for use.
As long as I find
something interesting, I will put time and effort into it. That goes for my
brewing. It can be interest in a process, a method, or an ingredient. This has meant that I’ve gone through the
entire brew process, fermentation, bottling, conditioning, and then thrown
entire batches away because I found the beer to be not as I wanted it to be.
That’s not to say it was wasted though, doing this has allowed me to learn
about different methods that have only improved my brewing later down the line.
I assume that the
brewday for me is going to be the same as everyone else who’s been doing it for
about 18 months. I’ve tried to learn enough so that I can be fairly competent
with the process which makes the actual brew easier. I still have so much
learning and experimentation to do, and with the process understood I can spend
more time developing ideas and recipes, and I suppose styles.
One thing I like to do
now is to brew and split the batch, fermenting with different yeasts, that way
I get to do side by side comparisons of how something can affect the final
beer. I think this is something I’m going to do more of in the future. I think I will expand that out to also
include different methods of hopping as well.
Thanks again to our contributors. Look out for The Homebrew Sessions Vol. 3: Adjuncts coming soon.
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